{"id":4537,"date":"2020-12-19T12:41:05","date_gmt":"2020-12-19T09:41:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/taitung.eu\/?p=4537"},"modified":"2024-01-26T00:04:01","modified_gmt":"2024-01-25T21:04:01","slug":"revista-elevilor-din-cosbuc-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/taitung.eu\/index.php\/revista-elevilor-din-cosbuc-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Moda persoanelor de culoare, adaptat\u0103 \u0219i adoptat\u0103"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Tr\u0103im \u00eentr-o lume \u00een care moda se schimb\u0103 \u00een fiecare lun\u0103, \u00een care trend-urile apar \u0219i dispar \u00eenainte s\u0103 apuc\u0103m s\u0103 le adopt\u0103m. Acestea, de obicei, se inspir\u0103 din trecut. Astfel se ajunge deseori la reinterpretarea unor piese din diferite culturi \u0219i epoci. Dar ce \u0219tim noi de fapt despre ce e „la mod\u0103\u201d acum? \u00cen acest articol vei g\u0103si c\u00e2teva tendin\u021be care au origini \u00een cultura afro-american\u0103 \u0219i a persoanelor de culoare sau care au ajuns cunoscute prin intermediul acestora.<\/p>\n

High-end streetwear<\/b><\/h6>\n

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Trendul de a purta streetwear (sneaker\u0219i \u0219i treninguri) ca haine de zi cu zi \u00ee\u0219i are originile \u00een comunitatea afro-american\u0103..Aceste tendin\u021be au fost preluate r\u00e2nd pe r\u00e2nd de mai multe case de mod\u0103 precum Tommy Hilfiger \u0219i Chanel, iar asta a dus la cre\u0219terea \u00een popularitate a firmelor de\u021binute de persoanele de culoare, Cross Colours \u0219i Karl Kani. Pe m\u0103sur\u0103 ce aceste concepte au devenit cunoscute, au fost preluate de alte case de mod\u0103 din Europa. Cert este c\u0103, sneaker\u0219ii \u0219i treningurile au devenit piese standard \u00een garderoba iubitorilor de mod\u0103 din zilele noastre.<\/p>\n

L<\/b>ogo<\/b>mania<\/b><\/h6>\n
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Ce este logomania? Este atunci c\u00e2nd un brand \u00ee\u0219i pune emblema pe crea\u021biile sale, uneori \u00een mod exagerat sau repetitiv. Apari\u021bia ini\u021bial\u0103 a acestui trend este discutabil\u0103, unii spun c\u0103 ar fi \u00eenceput \u00een 1892, c\u00e2nd Georges Vuitton a proiectat emblema Louis Vuitton, ap\u0103rut\u0103 pentru prima dat\u0103 pe valize. Al\u021bii spun c\u0103 a \u00eenceput \u00een 1960 cu emblema iconic\u0103 a lui Gucci, pe gen\u021bi \u0219i accesorii. Cu toate acestea, nu putem s\u0103 discut\u0103m despre streetwear \u0219i logomanie f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103 vorbim despre unul dintre fondatorii \u00eembr\u0103c\u0103mintei stradale, Dapper Dan. Acesta a \u00eenceput s\u0103 lucreze pentru prima dat\u0103 \u00een boutique-ul s\u0103u din Harlem, New York, \u00een anii 1980. El folosea ilegal emblemele de la firme precum Louis Vuitton, Fendi \u0219i Gucci, imprim\u00e2ndu-le pe piele \u0219i folosindu-le \u00een moduri la care casele de mod\u0103 nici nu se g\u00e2ndiser\u0103. Designurile sale nu erau limitate la haine, el concepea \u0219i interioare auto, perdele \u0219i huse pentru mobil\u0103. \u00cenainte de a fi \u00eencarcerat \u00een 1989, el a fost sprijinit de comunitatea american\u0103 de rap \u0219i hip-hop, \u00eembr\u0103c\u00e2nd nume precum Jay Z, Floyd Mayweather, LL Cool J \u0219i P-Diddy. Astfel a creat o cerere pentru astfel de produse, care a fost completat\u0103 de casele comerciale de mod\u0103. Ast\u0103zi, logomania este o alt\u0103 tendin\u021b\u0103 care \u00ee\u0219i face revenirea la Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Fendi \u0219i Dior.<\/p>\n

Grills<\/b><\/h6>\n

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Conceptul de a pune capete de aur \u0219i argint pe din\u021bi \u00ee\u0219i are originea din cultura antic\u0103 etrusc\u0103, atunci c\u00e2nd femeile \u00eenst\u0103rite purtau aceste bijuterii din aur ca mod de a-\u0219i expune bog\u0103\u021bia \u0219i statutul social. De atunci aceast\u0103 tradi\u021bie dispare \u0219i reapare constant \u00een America de Sud \u0219i \u00een Caraibe. \u00cen anii 1980, acest accesoriu a redevenit popular dup\u0103 ce artistul jamaican, Shabba Ranks, a purtat un dinte de aur. Apoi trend-ul s-a r\u0103sp\u00e2ndit \u0219i \u00een New York,\u00a0 aceste grills fiind purtate de arti\u0219ti hip hop precum Raheem the Dream \u0219i Kilo Ali. Ast\u0103zi, Rihanna, ASAP Rocky \u0219i Kanye West, pe l\u00e2ng\u0103 mul\u021bi al\u021bii, par s\u0103 readuc\u0103 acest accesoriu la gloria de alt\u0103dat\u0103.<\/p>\n

Hoops<\/b><\/h6>\n
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Se zvone\u0219te c\u0103 cerceii rotunzi, sau cerceii tip hoops, de aur, dateaz\u0103 din vechiul Sumer, c\u00e2nd femeile \u00eel purtau \u00een jurul anului 2500 \u00ee.Hr. \u0219i la pira\u021bii din anii 1650. De atunci, diferite varia\u021bii ale cerceilor au fost preluate de femei de culoare, de la indieni la latino \u0219i la afro-americani. \u00cen timpul mi\u0219c\u0103rii pentru drepturi civile din anii ’60, cerceii ace\u0219tia au devenit populari \u00een streetwear. Femeile care \u00eei purtau \u00ee\u0219i \u00eembr\u0103\u021bi\u0219au astfel cultura. Activi\u0219ti \u0219i arti\u0219ti precum Angela Davis, Tina Turner \u0219i Janet Jackson au considerat stilul o modalitate de a-\u0219i p\u0103stra identitatea. \u00cen anii ’80, cerceii au fost asocia\u021bi \u0219i cu o subcultur\u0103 a femeilor din clasa muncitoare mexican\u0103 care locuiau \u00een sudul Californiei, numit\u0103 \u201eCholas\u201d. Acest accesoriu a fost purtat \u0219i de tinerii din anii ’90. Printre adep\u021bii acestui stil se num\u0103r\u0103 personalit\u0103\u021bi precum Madonna, JLo \u0219i Cher. Ulterior au fost comercializate \u0219i reimaginate \u00een diverse stiluri de c\u0103tre case de mod\u0103 din \u00eentreaga lume.<\/p>\n

P\u0103l\u0103riile tip <\/b>Bucket hat<\/i><\/b><\/h6>\n

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\u00a0P\u0103l\u0103ria aceasta a ap\u0103rut ini\u021bial \u00een Irlanda, la \u00eenceputul secolului XX, unde era folosit\u0103 de fermieri \u0219i pescari (de aici \u0219i denumirea de p\u0103l\u0103rie de pescar<\/i>). \u00cen anii ’60 aceasta era un accesoriu elegant pentru femei, dar devine popular\u0103 abia \u00een anii ’80, \u00een era hip-hop. Primul dintre arti\u0219tii care au atras aten\u021bia asupra acestui accesoriu a fost Big Bang Hank, care a purtat accesoriul la unul dintre concertele sale din 1979.\u00a0 A fost urmat de al\u021bii precum Run-DMC, LL Cool J \u0219i Jay Z. Acum p\u0103l\u0103ria de pescar a ap\u0103rut pe podiumul designerilor precum cei de la Prada \u0219i Fendi.<\/p>\n

Snapbacks<\/b><\/h6>\n

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P\u0103l\u0103ria snapback<\/i> exist\u0103 \u00eenc\u0103 de la \u00eenceputul secolului al XIX-lea, ca o alternativ\u0103 la \u0219epcile purtate de juc\u0103torii de baseball. Cu toate acestea, snapback-urile au ajuns \u00eentr-adev\u0103r pe scena de streetwear la sf\u00e2r\u0219itul anilor ’80, \u00eenceputul anilor ’90, c\u00e2nd arti\u0219ti \u0219i actori precum Tupac Shakur, Will Smith \u0219i Ice Cube au \u00eenceput s\u0103 le poarte \u00een videoclipurile, emisiunile \u0219i filmele lor. A devenit o pies\u0103 de rezisten\u021b\u0103 pentru arti\u0219ti precum Jay-Z, Kanye West, Mac Miller \u0219i Eminem.<\/p>\n

Geaca de piele<\/b><\/h6>\n

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Geaca de piele, c\u0103ma\u0219a albastr\u0103, pantalonii negri \u0219i bereta neagr\u0103 formau uniforma organiza\u021biei Black Panther<\/i>, fondat\u0103 \u00een 1966 de Bobby Seale \u0219i Huey Newton. Aceasta condamna agresiunea din partea poli\u021biei \u00eempotriva persoanelor de culoare \u0219i a instituit programe de mic dejun gratuit pentru copii \u0219i clinici comunitare de s\u0103n\u0103tate pentru tratamentul bolilor precum tuberculoza \u0219i ulterior HIV \/ SIDA. \u00cen acest timp aveau loc mi\u0219c\u0103rile pentru drepturile civile \u0219i Black is Beautiful<\/i>. Cea din urm\u0103 \u00eencuraja afro-americanii s\u0103 renun\u021be la decolorarea pielii \u0219i la \u00eendreptarea p\u0103rului, instituind afro-ul ca un simbol al activismului. Geaca de piele a devenit piesa de rezisten\u021b\u0103 a multor prezent\u0103ri de mod\u0103 \u0219i a fost introdus\u0103 \u0219i \u00een \u021binutele noastre de zi cu zi. Aceasta continu\u0103 s\u0103 fie purtat\u0103 ca un simbol de putere.<\/p>\n

Costumele <\/b>Zoot<\/i><\/b><\/h6>\n
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Aceste costume au ap\u0103rut \u00een anii ’20 \u00een timpul Rena\u0219terii Harlem, cunoscut\u0103 \u0219i sub numele New Black Movement<\/i>. Aceast\u0103 mi\u0219care a oferit comunit\u0103\u021bii afro-americane ocazia s\u0103-\u0219i dezvolte identitatea de grup prin mod\u0103, ob\u021bin\u00e2nd controlul asupra reprezent\u0103rii culturii lor. Costumele Zoot au fost purtate de arti\u0219ti de jazz precum Cab Calloway. Acestea au devenit un element definitoriu al acelei perioade prin croiala supradimensionat\u0103 \u0219i reverele largi, care se reg\u0103sesc \u0219i \u00een ziua de azi \u00een \u00eembr\u0103c\u0103mintea masculin\u0103.<\/p>\n

Trendurile pe care \u021bi le-am prezentat sunt arhicunoscute, cu toate acestea, c\u00e2\u021bi dintre noi cunoa\u0219tem de fapt ce purt\u0103m? Eu recunosc c\u0103 nu auzisem de originile acestora. Personal m-a \u00eentristat s\u0103 v\u0103d elementul comun al tendin\u021belor precizate \u00een acest articol: toate au fost preluate de c\u0103tre companii mari. Acestea au \u00eencercat s\u0103 \u00ee\u0219i \u00eensu\u0219easc\u0103 tradi\u021bii, culturi \u0219i procedee de exprimare artistic\u0103, ce nu le apar\u021bin \u0219i despre care nu par s\u0103 \u0219tie mare lucru. Este fascinant c\u00e2t de mult ne influen\u021b\u0103m unii pe ceilal\u021bi \u00een ceea ce prive\u0219te \u00eembr\u0103c\u0103mintea \u0219i nu numai.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Tr\u0103im \u00eentr-o lume \u00een care moda se schimb\u0103 \u00een fiecare lun\u0103, \u00een care trend-urile apar \u0219i dispar \u00eenainte s\u0103 apuc\u0103m s\u0103 le adopt\u0103m. Acestea, de obicei, se inspir\u0103 din trecut. Astfel se ajunge deseori la reinterpretarea unor piese din diferite culturi \u0219i epoci. Dar ce \u0219tim noi de fapt despre ce e „la mod\u0103\u201d acum?…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":57,"featured_media":4553,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[1304,1308],"tags":[762,757,759,767,763,740,766,764,758,760,663,761,533,756,765,755],"class_list":["post-4537","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-prin-lume","category-prin-muzica","tag-afro-american","tag-black","tag-bucket-hat","tag-costum-zoot","tag-cultura","tag-fashion","tag-geaca-de-piele","tag-grills","tag-haine","tag-hoops","tag-influente-culturale","tag-logomania","tag-moda","tag-persoane-de-culoare","tag-snapback","tag-trend"],"yoast_head":"\nModa 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